Buying a used guitar is one of the smartest moves a player can make — you get more instrument for your money, and vintage character that no new guitar can replicate. But a great deal and a problematic guitar can look identical at first glance. This guide walks you through every inspection point so you can buy with confidence.
1. The Neck
The neck is the single most important structural element to evaluate. A bad neck can make a guitar unplayable or very expensive to repair.
- Relief (bow): Sight down the bass side of the neck from the headstock toward the body. A slight forward bow (concave) is normal and adjustable via the truss rod. A back-bow (convex) or an S-curve warp is more serious.
- Truss rod function: Ask the seller whether the truss rod has been adjusted recently and whether it still has room to move in both directions. A maxed-out truss rod on a badly bowed neck is a significant red flag.
- Neck joint: On bolt-on necks, check for gaps at the heel. On set necks and dovetail acoustics, look for any separation or finish cracking around the joint — both can indicate a previous repair or humidity damage.
- Headstock: Look carefully for repaired breaks, even under a good refinish. Run a finger along all headstock seams and check for slight ridges, discoloration, or filler.
2. Cracks and Structural Issues
Not all cracks are created equal. Knowing the difference between a cosmetic check and a structural crack will save you from a costly mistake.
- Top and back cracks: On acoustics, look for cracks running along the grain of the top or back. Hairline finish cracks are often cosmetic; cracks that go through the wood itself affect tone and require repair.
- Brace separation: Press lightly on the top around the soundhole and lower bout. Any buzzing or movement can indicate a loose brace inside — common on older acoustics stored in low humidity.
- Binding and seams: Check all binding edges and body seams for lifting or gaps. These are usually repairable but factor into the price.
- Electric body cracks: On solid-bodies, look along the grain of the top, particularly on figured maple caps, and around any routed cavities where stress can concentrate.
3. Frets
Fret wear directly affects playability and intonation — and a full refret is one of the more expensive repairs you can face.
- Wear grooves: Look for flat spots or grooves worn into the frets, especially under the high-E and B strings in the first five positions. Minor wear is normal; deep grooves cause buzzing and intonation problems.
- Fret height: Place a straightedge across three adjacent frets. Any rocking indicates a high fret that will cause buzzing — this is a common, inexpensive fix if isolated.
- Fret ends: Run your hand along both sides of the neck. Sharp, protruding fret ends typically mean the fretboard has dried out and shrunk. The frets can be filed down, but it signals that the guitar has been stored in low humidity.
- Remaining life: A guitar with less than 30–40% fret material remaining will need a refret sooner rather than later. Factor that cost into your offer.
4. Electronics
For electric guitars and acoustic-electrics, a full electronics check takes five minutes and reveals a lot.
- Plug in and test every control: Slowly rotate every pot (volume, tone, blend). Any crackling or drop-outs indicates dirty or failing potentiometers — inexpensive to replace, but worth noting.
- Pickup selector: Cycle through every position. A scratchy or intermittent selector switch is common on older guitars and usually an easy fix.
- Output jack: Wiggle the cable in the jack while playing a note. Any cutting out means the jack needs tightening or replacement.
- Pickup height and output: Check that each pickup produces a clear, balanced signal. Uneven output between pickups may just be a height adjustment, or it may indicate a weak or failing coil.
- Acoustic preamp systems: On acoustic-electrics, check the battery compartment and test the tuner and EQ controls. Replacement pickup systems are available but add cost.
5. Finish
The finish tells the story of how a guitar was cared for — and whether it has been repaired or refinished.
- Checking and crazing: Fine networks of finish cracks (checking) are common on vintage lacquer and are generally considered cosmetic. Heavy crazing that has penetrated into the wood is a different matter.
- Refin or touch-up? Look for overspray on plastic parts, binding, or tuner buttons. Color inconsistencies, especially in raking light, can indicate spot repairs or a full refinish — both of which affect collector value on vintage instruments.
- Buckle rash and playing wear: Normal on a played guitar. Deep gouges or dings near the binding on an acoustic can be a stress point to monitor.
- UV fading: On sunburst or natural-top guitars, check whether the color is even from treble side to bass side. One-sided fading suggests the guitar sat in direct sunlight — not a structural issue, but a negotiating point.
6. Setup: What It Is and When You Need One
A professional setup is a comprehensive adjustment of all playability factors: string action at the nut and saddle (or bridge), truss rod relief, intonation, and pickup height on electrics. Most used guitars benefit from a fresh setup regardless of condition — strings age, humidity changes, and guitars travel.
Budget $50–$100 for a standard setup and factor this into any used purchase. A guitar that feels stiff or hard to play straight off a sale might be 90% of the way to great with a setup alone.
Signs a setup is overdue:
- Action noticeably higher at the 12th fret than at the 1st
- Intonation is off (fretted notes at the 12th fret are sharp or flat relative to the harmonic)
- Fret buzz on open strings or in specific positions
- Nut slots cutting into strings or binding on tuning
We offer professional repair and setup services in-store. Visit our Repairs page to learn more or to get in touch about your guitar.
7. What Photos to Request (or Take)
Whether you're buying locally or from an online listing, these are the photos that matter:
- Full front and full back of the body
- Headstock front and back (look for repairs and tuner condition)
- Neck heel or joint area
- Close-up of the frets from the 1st to the 7th position
- Nut close-up
- Bridge and saddle (acoustics: look for lifting or cracks around the bridge plate)
- Inside the soundhole at an angle to see top bracing (for acoustics)
- Any known damage areas, with ruler or coin for scale
- Electronics cavity with the cover removed (electrics)
A seller who declines to provide these photos is giving you important information.
Ready to Shop?
Now that you know what to look for, browse our current inventory of inspected and described used instruments:
Have a used guitar you'd like inspected or set up before you commit? Contact our repair team — we're happy to give you an honest assessment.